Rolled Hem Neckline Trim

While designing and stitching away on my latest 'Up-cycle Sewing' project, I found myself wanting a simple touch of red at the neck and sleeves. To accomplish that, I came up with a brand new (at least I hadn't see it before) 1 piece neck binding that utilizes the curl of a single knit. But, before I get to that new technique, let me show you the design process that got me from a Christmas T-Shirt and some red and black knits into this:

TO START: a T-Shirt

After pressing flat at the sides (taking care to NOT touch the iron over top of the screen print!), I cut off the sleeves - a healthy 1/2" into the sleeve, from the sleeve seam. Also note that I cut off just a sliver along each pressed side.

At the top of the T-shirt picture, you can see some other 'fabrics' that I had pulled from my stash, to consider utilizing in this up-cycle project. I ALWAYS pull out more 'fabrics' and trims/notions, than I think I might ever use at this point. My 'Stash' is organized in large bins by color.

Hop over to THIS BLOG POST for more information on how I organize my Stash.

Projects rarely 'come together' immediately....I work awhile, have some ideas and make a note of what those ideas, so as not to 'forget' my inspirations. If a night comes along before I get back to the project, I generally dream and consider options...

Re-Cut T-Shirt to Fit

As you can see in image below, with shoulder seams still intact, I've laid my master Terrific T-Shirt pattern (note it is backed with fusible interfacing), on to cut. I did this for both Front and Back of the original T. At this point, I'd already decided how long to cut the Front and Back, having decided to utilize a black knit flounce 'bottom' I found in my Black Knit Stash Bin.

The reason I use my Terrific T Pattern is to get an improved fit for the project through the upper chest and armhole area.

If you look closely at the lower cut edge in the picture above, you'll see that I have cut a slight curve towards the center back, as I've learned that garments are more flattering when they curve slightly down towards the center back rather than straight around.

Here's a side view (though at finished stage) to show you what this accomplishes.

This picture below shows comparing the side seams to make them the same length when cutting the back of the T-shirt after the Terrific T pattern.

Bishop Sleeve Draft

Since the Sleeve on my Terrific T pattern is a slim style, and I envisioned a classic Bishop full sleeve with elastic at the wrist, I dug out my go-to book: Pattern-making Made Easy by Connie Crawford.

This book is quite valuable - as you can see here at Amazon:

Step 1: Trace the original sleeve of the pattern - full length.

Step 2: Draw lines about 1.5" apart and slash, from wrist to seam line, leave a 'hinge' at the seam line, then cut through the seam allowance and spread the sections - about 1.5" is what I did, and tape down only as necessary for the next step. There are a few more details to this process (I direct you to the book,) or I'm sure YouTube likely has some videos on this as well. Do note the curve at the back portion along the lower edge - 1.5" longer in that quarter of the sleeve lower edge.

Step 3: Lay another piece of tissue over the top of this piece, and trace.

With my new sleeve pattern in hand, I could add the sleeves cut from the same black lightweight poly knit of which the flounce I had on hand was made.

Lower Flounce

I have a complete video from when I appeared on It's Sew Easy TV that explains how to draft a flounce. Here it is for you.

Finally - to my newly-discovered 'touch of red' neckline rolled edge neckline...

I cut a 2" wide piece of jersey knit (this one was on the heavier side, much heavier than a T-shirt) on the LENGTHWISE GRAIN and 6" or so longer than the neckline circumference.

I stitched the WRONG side of the red strip to the WRONG side of the neckline in a 1/4" seam, leaving about 3" at the center back where I started - and ended (as at this point, I was not sure how I'd 'finish' off the back, so I left myself plenty of length of the trim.)

Next, I brought the red trim up and snugly wrapped the seam allowance and pinned. Then, from the wrong side, secured the trim in place by carefully 'stitching in the ditch' as you can see below. As I have the 'outside' exposed towards the left in the image below, you can see how the remaining raw edge is rolling to the right side of the trim.

Here is how the trim looks, up close, from the outside. I was pleased!

At the center back, I elected to just tie it in a knot for some interest on a rather plain-looking backside.

To add the touch of red at the wrist and make an elastic casing...

I simply stitched the 2" strip onto the outside of the sleeve, placing it 1" above the lower edge of the sleeve (which, by the way, I left cut and 'raw', same as the lower flounce). It seemed just fine to me that parts of the red 'rolled' and others didn't. I quite like it!

Sew...what do you think? Is this something new for you? It sure was fun for me.

I've played more with 'rolled hem edges' of single or jersey knits, and made a video several years back. Find it below... it's quite an interesting 'learning curve'.